Shalom friends, family, random internet readers. In living up to the name of my blog, I truly have been a stranger these last few months. As always, I apologize for my lack of entries, but life in and outside of Israel have been moving at a frantic pace. So in celebration of my return (don’t hold me to any promises), let’s take a trip down memory lane and recap what the hell I’ve been doing with my life over these last few months. Please keep all hands and feet inside, until we’ve come to a complete stop.
As many of you know, I’ve been studying Hebrew at Ulpan Etzion in Jerusalem. In late May, while on break, I journeyed to Tunisia. YES TUNISIA. Now, I know what many of you might be thinking, “What the hell were you doing in Tunisia, and where the hell is it?” Tunisia is a Northern African, Arab country on the Mediterranean Sea, just south of France and Italy. Every year, usually in May, there is a gigantic Jewish festival for Lag B’Omer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lag_B%27Omer) on the small island community of El Djerba. Needless to say, the Jews of Tunisia are not only treated very well by the government (I actually had my picture taken with the minister of tourism at the festival) but are incredibly well respected by the vastly 98% Sunni, Arab Muslim majority. I never felt in danger. During the week leading up to this festival, the island is overwhelmed with Jews mostly from France and Israel. Having been a former French colony, Tunisians speak French and Arabic fluently. I had no problem communicating in French. Many in the tourist areas, hotels, airports, and ancient ruins spoke English. The island even boasts 4 fully kosher hotels which is unheard of in the Arabic world, let alone in most countries outside of Israel. The island looks forward to the Lag B’Omer festival as it’s a cash cow for the locals.
I spent a few days in Tunis, the capital enjoying the ancient Phoenician, Greek, and Roman settlements in nearby Carthage. I was really impressed with how well the ancient ruins were preserved. I visited bathhouses, aqueducts, amphitheatres, and a museum dedicated to Hannibal, the Carthaginian military general, not Anthony Hopkins. A few hours away, in the ancient Roman city of El Jem, there is a perfectly maintained Coliseum, exactly like the one in Rome. I walked all around the site, ascending to the upper levels for a bird’s eye view of the 2,000 year old structure and surrounding town. Also, I pleasantly and surprisingly stumbled upon the only official World War II allied cemetery dedicated to the fallen soldiers who fought against Germany in the Northern African campaign. All of the British, American, and Canadian soldiers who were killed in the various battles in Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Libya, and Egypt, are buried at the cemetery near Carthage. The grounds are well kept with battle site explanations, a chapel, and respectively decorated grave sites, depending on the soldier’s religion. At first, I thought I was back in Normandy at the French WWII cemetery, until my amazing tour guide informed me that ALL of the official WII cemeteries are fashioned in the exact same style. My last few days were spent by the pool or the beach, which were just as warm as and a lot quieter than the beaches in Tel-Aviv.
Upon returning to Israel, I was met with a fury of Hebrew exams which required studying. I finished my 5 months of ulpan, and in my honest, humble opinion, around level Bet, which means I advanced an entire level. My Hebrew speaking and reading skills have advanced amazingly. Although my writing is still very poor, I know that with time, practice, and patience I will master this language eventually. Everyone does sooner or later.
After ulpan ended in June, I was invited to attend a student led trip to Germany and Poland, sponsored by Bar-Illan University. Contrary to popular belief, I initially rejected the idea. I had just finished ulpan, was tired of traveling, wanted to stick around Israel and relax for a few weeks. Well, visiting Germany and Poland have ALWAYS, even more so than Tunisia, been a dream. I couldn’t refuse, especially since the trip was subsidized. So, I said good-bye to my ulpan friends. I could honestly say, I made about 4-5 good friends; they know who they are. I think about them frequently, love them dearly, and wish nothing but success for all who I’ve met at Ulpan Etzion. However, after 5 months of shared living with the same dull atmosphere, I was more than over-due for a change in scenery. My life in Israel would continue after a few weeks in Europe.
Germany and Poland were a real experience. I struggled not just as a Jew, but as a young American. I visited many of the usual sites, castles, art museums, and the rather unusual: Berlin Wall, Check Point Charlie, Auschwitz, Majdanek, and Dacha concentration camps. I participated in a walking tour of Berlin where we learned of various historical sites. The city is well planned; of course not many of the buildings pre-date the allied bombings of WWII. There isn’t much left of the Berlin Wall, but a few sections still stand as a testament to the constrictive life style created under Russian communism. Check Point Charlie would make any American vomit. There are two fake Russian and American soldiers, dressed up in 1950’s style uniforms standing on either side of the East meets West border. For 5 Euros, you can have your picture taken with the “soldiers” and a fake border crossing stamp, like the one they used before the wall fell in 1989, added to your passport. It’s good to see capitalism alive and well in East Berlin.
I think that by the time I had visited Auschwitz, my 3rd camp, I was more or less desensitized to the Shoah and the Nazi war machine. The trip answered some questions but also raised many more. I found Germans to be incredibly polite, pleasant, and apologetic for the destruction they brought to much of the world during the last century. The older generations are completely embarrassed, ashamed and would like nothing more than to move on. The younger generations seemed, and correctly so, far removed from the sins of their forefathers. However, they too understand that no matter how many years pass, Germany will forever have blood on their hands. Poland was a dark, depressing and often backwards country with many lessons yet learned from their past. If Germany was the perpetrator of WWII, then Poland was the collaborator. To no fault of their own, Poland has just recently, within the last 20 years, emerged from 45 years of Soviet oppression. The Polish people, time and time again in my conversations, felt as though they were the only victims of Germany’s war machine. However, many historians would note that most Polish people had no problem “falling into line” with Germany policy. For hundreds of years before the start of WWII, the Polish frontier was the site of many pogroms, or state sponsored purges against Jewish villages. Following the war, Polish citizens led several pogrom against Jews trying to reclaim their lost property. There was a serious economic recession in 1968 that was somehow blamed on the remaining Jews. Does anyone see a pattern here?
After over 2 weeks of starving (it wasn’t easy finding kosher food in Eastern Europe), sleeping in almost a different hotel every night, and traveling, I was ready to return to Israel. Hopefully in the next few weeks, I might be able to post the pics from Tunisia and Europe on my facebook profile (http://www.facebook.com/home.php?). Please feel free to sign up for facebook, (if you don’t already belong) add me as your facebook friend, and then visit my photo section.
So, I’ve been back in Israel for the last month. About 2 weeks ago, I moved 2 hours north to Kibbutz Sde Eliyahu (http://www.seliyahu.org.il/ )near the small and ever so sleepy town of Beit Shean. I’ve gone from city boy to country man. I spend my week learning Hebrew and working, and the work ain’t easy. I wake up at 5 A.M (I used to complain about driving into Everett everyday for 10AM) for synagogue everyday, start work in either the vineyards picking grapes or in the chicken houses feeding the chicks, and finish usually by 1:30 in the afternoon. Not only is the work physically grueling, but I do it on the surface of the sun. The average summer daily temperature is about 105 F everyday. I don’t even bother showering in the morning anyway, just a waste of water. This is a religious kibbutz (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Religious_kibbutz ); we pray 3 times a day, strictly keep Shabbat and kosher, and work the land vigorously. This is my home for the next few months. It’s quiet, peaceful, hotter than hell, but filled with loving caring people of all ages.
Ok people, I’m back and ready to blog again, but I can’t do it alone. Please feel free to let me know what you’re thinking about my journal entries, experiences in Israel, how much you miss or don’t miss me, and what your impressions are of Israel. Enjoy the rest of your summers, and we’ll all be in touch soon.
Shalom,
D.
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